Machry Armazém & Bistrô

My friend MS showed me this charming bakery/deli/bazar store in Tristeza neighborhood in Zona Sul (the southern suburb of Porto Alegre). The two Machry sisters run the place. The front part of the store is a deli, where they sell homemade breads, cakes, pastries, fresh and frozen, all made of 100% natural ingredients. They also sell dairy products, sauces and kitchenware. As you go deeper in the store, it turns into a bistro, where you can eat by a table, from a selection of food served in an inexpensive buffet. The food is original, light and delicious. Don't forget to leave some room for one of the irresistible homemade cakes. Ohh... they're just too good! We usually try more than one kind.At the front there are tables to sit and enjoy the small garden and open air. The store is decorated with different craft works that add an artistic touch to the place, and are for sale too.
Address: Rua Dr. Armando Barbedo, 257, Tristeza Tel. 3266.9301
Opening hours: Mon.-Sat. 10:00-19:00, Sun. 12:00-19:00. Packed on weekends.

Coffee in Porto Alegre

As a coffee addict, I can only say that I was disappointed from the coffee i found in Porto Alegre. Unfortunately, I still find it difficult to drink the brown liquid that is called coffee in Brazil. It is definitely not an espresso but I admit that as a dose of caffeine it does the work. The second problem is that a fresh good quality milk is a rare merchandise in Brazil, what makes getting a decent cup of cappuccino an almost impossible task.

However, after a while in Porto Alegre, I succeed to find some solutions:
Drinking coffee at home - to have good coffee at home, I bought nice Italian SAECO machine that together with Brazilian Melitta coffee beans (can be purchased at any big supermarket) and Santa Malta Tipo A fresh milk (can be purchased in selected Zaffari and Bourbon shops) - provide great cappuccino and fantastic espresso.
Having coffee out - for me there is only one coffee chain that is worth visiting in Porto Alegre - Press Cafe. This is maybe the only cafe in Porto Alegre that is using Santa Malta fresh milk and that it's "baristas" really know the job. The sweets next to the coffee are splendid as well. as other decent cafes we count Z-Cafe and Cafe do Porto.

Public transportation in Porto Alegre

Bus - Generally the buses in Porto Alegre are modern and comfortable. Buses come regularly and the different lines cover the entire city. On some streets there's a special bus lane and in peak hours the bus would be faster than a taxi. The lines are named by neighborhoods. In case the bus is going to/from Centro neighborhood, it will also have a number prefix. The prefix "T" means that the bus route is longer and it crosses the city through it's main crossing roads. A ride within Porto Alegre costs 2R$. Payment is done inside the bus as you get in.


Lotaçao - This is a red and blue minibus for up to 20 people. It's is a bit more expensive than a regular bus (3R$) but its advantage is that it stops anywhere along its route, just raise your hand to stop one. Pay the driver as you get off the bus. The lines are named by the neighborhood the bus is passing through.


Taxi - Taxi is safe and inexpensive to ride. You can either call a taxi station or stop one on the street.

Natal Luz in Gramado

Christmas time is the nicest time to visit charming Gramado. The streets are full of Christmas decorations, all made of recycled plastic bottles and colorful lights in the evenings.
During November-December there are many events going on in Gramado. The holidays program is called "Natal Luz" and it includes many events, out of which the most impressive one is the "Nativitaten". This is a show of a choir, laser lights and fire works, held in the surrounding of an artificial lake. A ticket should be purchased beforehand in Gramado's cinema ticket office, or online. This year the price for a ticket is 40R$.
There's also a parade, a singing tree (a choir singing between a Christmas tree leafs) and many more attractions.

The Caracol Park - Canela

The Caracol (=snail) park is located on the way from Gramado to Canela, 7Km before Canela. The Caracol waterfall is the main attraction of the park. The Caracol river falls from height of 130m to a small pool that can be reached by 927 stairs going down hill (and then uphill, yay!).
If you're not in an athletic mood, there are 2 other options to view the waterfall. First - a cable car ride with a view to the waterfall from above. Second - Entering the Caracol Park and taking the elevator to the view tower.

This picture was taken during summertime while the hortênsias (hydrangea) blooms.



This is a short video showing the waterfall, cable car and tower:




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Renting DVD's in Porto Alegre

The 2 biggest DVD stores we found are Espaço Video and Blockbuster. Signing up to a store is a bit of a pain... you'll need an ID card, CPF number and a residence proof. Payment is per movie - you rent a movie and pay upon return. Usually you can keep the movie for 24-48h on weekdays or for the whole weekend if you rent on a Friday. Espaço Video also has movie delivery service for extra 4R$.

Espaço Video stores addresses:

1. Rua Vasco da Gama, 153 Bom Fim. Tel. 3311-7999
2. Rua 24 de Outubro,1378 Auxiliadora. Tel. 3342-8585
3. Mucio Teixeira,661 Menino Deus. Tel. 3024-0808

Blockbuster stores addresses:

1. Assis Brasil 2847 Tel. 3361-6769
   
2. Carlos Gomes 11 Tel. 3333-8151
   
3. Av. Nilo Peçanha 2785 Tel. 3328-5660
   

Maria Fumaça Steam Train

In the heart of the wine area, north from Porto Alegre, the Maria Fumaça train ride is a fun tourist attraction. The train leaves from Bento Gonçalves, where you will have some Brazilian wine tasting. As the ride starts, groups of singers pass between the passengers, playing, singing and dancing, dressed up like old Italian immigrants. If you drink enough wine and you're mentally ready to dance, the dancers would be happy to dance with you. Make sure you have enough space on your camera memory card before embarking (-: The train stops on Garibaldi, where you'll taste some champagne and grape juice. The final stop is in Carlos Barbosa. A bus ride back to Bento Gonçalves is included. Another option is to ride a bus to Carlos Barbosa and take the train back to Bento Gonçalves. The ride is around 2 hours long, over 23 kilometers of scenic route.

It's recommended to reserve tickets in advance by phone:(54)3455-2788.
Train operates on Wed. and Sat. at 9:00 from Bento Gonçalves and 10:45 from Carlos Barbosa. At 14:00 from Bento Gonçalves and 16:00 from Carlos Barbosa. Kids under 5: free. Above 6: 40R$ on low season and 45R$ on high season (July, Dec. Jan.).


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Get your new Havaianas for the summer

We've been to the Bourbon Country supermarket this morning and
saw an extended Havaianas department. They usually have a nice selection of flip flops, but now they have plenty more!
(Sorry for the poor quality of the picture, I didn't imagine there would be something THAT exciting in the supermarket today)
Another store that always has a nice selection of Havaianas flip flops and accessories is HSC Concept on Padre Chagas St. They also sell socks to fit flip flops (in shape and color) and have bling charms to add to the flip flops.
Address: Padre Chagas 400, Mon-Sat. 10:00-20:00, Sun. 14:00-18:00

The Buddhist Center in Três Coroas

The Buddhist Center is located in a spectacular spot in the mountains of the serra gaúcha. The view is breathtaking and the temple is definitely worth a visit. Before entering the temple you should take off your shoes and keep silent. The temple and the monuments outside are beautifully decorated in vivid colors and detailed patterns. Unfortunately it's forbidden to take pictures inside the temple. There's also a small gift shop and kiosk.

Here's a short video about the temple (exclusive pictures from the inside, ha ha):


73Km from Porto Alegre on road RS-115, you arrive to Três Coroas, where you will see a sign to the "centro budista". Turn right to a dirt road. Climb up the mountain 7Km and turn left to the center. At the gate you'll be asked by intercom how many passengers in the car and the license plate number. Then the gate will magically open and you'll drive to the parking area. At this point you already start to feel the unique serenity surrounding you. Breath deeply and start meditating...
Pay attention to opening hours: Tuesday to Friday: 9:00-12:00 and 13:30-17:00. Saturday and Sunday: 9:00-17:00 pm. Free entrance.


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DOC - champamnharia and risoteria

We tried this restaurant last week with our friends AP&P. This charming, lighted by candles place is a bit hidden on a side street in the Bela Vista neighborhood. We thought it was different because they have few tables on the sidewalk outside the restaurant. It's something that we don't usually find in Porto Alegre. The decoration is rustic and on the walls hanging old windows and doors. On another wall hangs a blackboard with today's special risotto and champaign. They offer 5-6 types of risotto, in a big portion (2 servings) or an individual one. The risottos we tried were delicious - prawns with orange aroma and another one with cheese. And of course it's recommended to drink champagne. The waiter was very welcoming and patient too, having to recite the list of desserts 4 times for us, Portuguese strugglers. Don't miss the strawberries in sugar and pepper for dessert!
It's recommended to arrive early because the place is small and becomes packed pretty early.
Address: Rua Jaime Telles 325, Bela Vista. Mon.-Sat. 19:00-00:00.

Air force base "open day"

The Brazilian air base in Canoas is having its annual open day tomorrow, Oct. 12th with lots of attractions like music shows, churrasco, exposition of civil and military aircrafts, F-5M, Mirage 2000 and of course an aerobatic show. The main aerobatic show usually starts at around 16:00. It's recommended to arrive 2 hours earlier to avoid the traffic jam.

Base Aérea de Canoas map - Tagzania

Essa POA e boa

Essa POA e boa is a contemporary art exposition, taking place in an indoor space by the Dado brewery in DC Navegantes. All artists participating are from Porto Alegre, showing 12 projects that include paintings, sculptures,video and music. Personally I liked this exposition much better than the Bienal. The works are more creative, colorful and interesting. The kids also liked it a lot.
Opening hours: Tue.-Sat. 12:00-22:00, Sun. and holidays 10:00-20:00. Free entrance and free parking at the DC Navegantes shopping center.

Farroupilha Parade

Farroupilha week will be celebrated tomorrow, Sept. 20th, with a nice parade of the gauchos. The parade passes by the Farroupilha park with gauchos dressed up in traditional cloths, riding horses or decorated trucks, marching bands and typical music. 9:45-12:30.

Sushi by Cleber

It is more than three years that we are visiting Sushi by Cleber. Sometimes we visit there once every couple of weeks and sometimes even twice a week. Sushi by Cleber can be considered as our "home sushi place" (some colleagues, while visiting in Porto Alegre are telling us: "we ate yesterday at Dagan's sushi...").

Cleber is not exactly what you will expect from a chef. A super cool, well-tattooed guy, nice and friendly and can make one of the the best sushis in town. The restaurant is casual yet well decorated, the fish are always fresh and the environment is... like home.

The house system is fixed price per person (around R$ 45-50) for free sushi buffet and some dishes that are served to the table (sushi and sashimi combo, hot Philadelphia sushi, grilled salmon, Shitaki mushrooms, missoshiro soup and others).

By the way - Sushi by Cleber is open 7 days a week for dinner!!!! During summer time, Cleber is open during week days in Porto Alegre and during weekends at Atlantida beach, about an hour drive from the city.

Address: Desembargador Esperidião de Lima Medeiros 317

Tel. 3328-8330/4499
Open every day, 19:30 - Last Customer

"No Ar" exposition - RBS group

RBS is a media group that celebrates 50 years of activity with a nice exposition in Porto Alegre -"No Ar" (=on air), about TV, radio, internet, newspaper and more. The exposition tells the history of RBS interactively, involving fiction, reality and rhythm. It's also fun for kids. Dates: 1.9 - 18.11.2007 Place: Usina do Gasometro Visiting hours: Tue.-Sun. 9:00-21:00. Free entrance. Free parking.

Home made soft cheese

Sometimes I really miss having a low fat and tasty soft cheese. The only soft cheese I could find here was Philadelphia or Alluete which are very fat. So I make my own cheese by taking 6-8 containers of Parmalat Iogurte Natural 200ml. (see picture). The blue one has around 4% fat and the green is fat free. I mix them with a little bit of salt and put all in a cloth diaper (the old fashion diapers). I tie the cloth above the sink and let the water drain for couple of hours and...voila! The time depends on the desired consistency. 4 hours would give softer cheese and 10 hours would give a firmer one. The cheese can stay for a long period of time in a close container in the fridge and is also good for baking purposes.

Hashi - Japanese Restaurant

We tried Hashi two weeks ago with a group of friends. We had a fantastic ten-courses degustation dinner that was so palatable, that less than two week later we find ourselves sitting there again, and having another degustation (only six-courses this time).

Chef Carlos Kritensen is bringing to the table original and creative flavors, using his experience from studying and working in Thailand, India, Nepal and Malaysia. Each of the courses we had was delicious - both to the eyes and to the tongue. Oyster cooked in Champagne and Brie cheese, Shrimp in Curry souce, Salmon sashimi with thin slices of lemon, Tuna fish with Foie Gras in balsamic marinade and many many others. To complete the experience, the chef comes out with every dish and gives a short exploitation about it.

Hashi (in Porto Alegre) is relatively young restaurant (less than two years old), so the Chef still needs to prove that he can keep the same level for long time. Up to now - he does it well and we will definitely come back soon. Every visit is a new great adventure.
If you're planning to have the degustation dinner you need to inform the chef one day in advance.

HASHI
Rua Desembargador Augusto Loureiro Lima 151
Tel. 3328-0005
Mon. - Sat. 19:30 - 24:00
www.hashi.com.br

Guia Quatro Rodas - planning trips in Brazil

If you are planning a trip in Brazil and you can read some Portuguese, don't forget to take a look at the "Guia Quatro Rodas Brasil". The book gives helpful information about all the touristic places in Brazil, including maps, prices and tips about hotels, restaurants and attractions.
The "Quatro Rodas" site, offers a lot of this information on-line for free.

Bienal B in Porto Alegre

The "Bienal B" is an alternative art exhibition, in parallel to the traditional Bienal do Mercosul. An informal organization of 300 artists is displaying the artists works all around Porto Alegre during the months of September, October and November 2007. This is a map of the bienal exhibits in Porto Alegre. During this period there will also be lectures and crafts classes given.

Buying Furniture in Porto Alegre

There are many furniture shops in Porto Alegre and it's impossible of course to mention them all. Here are 3 areas where you can find lots of shops in one place:
DC Shopping Navegantes - This is an open mall with several furniture shops (also carpets and accessories). All of them are of high quality and the prices are according to that.
Avenida Ipiranga - on this street, starting from about Av. Ipiranga 7000, there are tens (!) of shops with huge furniture selection of different quality level. You can find a wide price range in these shops, according to quality and brands.
Rua Quintino Bocaiúva - A street in Moinhos de Vento neighborhood with lots of luxurious furniture shops.
Another furniture and accessories store chain is Tok&Stok, it looks very much like Ikea, just not as cheap. It has a large selection of furnitures and a nice show room. Address: Av. 24 de Outubro, 1538.

Theaters in Porto Alegre

There are few theaters in Porto Alegre for concerts, plays and shows.
Teatro do Sesi offers concerts from international and national singers and bands. In the program it says where you can buy tickets. Tickets are sold in different place for each show. Address: Av. Assis Brasil 8787 – B. Sarandi Tel. 0800 518555.

Another theater is the Bourbon Theater which is located at the Bourbon Country Shopping, address: Rua Túlio de Rose, 100 Tel. 32318899. It's new and has shows for kids and adults. Tickets for shows are available at the theater Mon.-Fri. 10:00-22:00 or at Telentrega Opus.

Opus is a "telentrega" (delivery) ticket office. At this moment their site is not working but maybe it will work again one day(-: Tel. No. 32990800 Mon.-Fri. 9:00-19:00.

Teatro Sao Pedro which is located at "Centro" offers classic music concerts and plays in Portuguese. Address: Praça Mal. Deodoro, s/nº Porto Alegre Tel. 32275300.

Diners Club Card and Airport Lounge

When flying from Porto Alegre inside or outside of Brazil, it is almost always necessary to stop in Sao Paulo, Guarulhos airport. For making long layovers easier, we issued a Diners Club credit card. This way we can enter the Diners airport lounge and enjoy for free, a drink, internet access, massage couch, TV etc. One card per family is enough.

Ideas for presents to take home

What presents do we bring from Porto Alegre when we go home for a visit?

1. Instant Pao de Queijo powder to make at home
2. Cachasa
3. Havaianas + Havaianas socks
   
4. Brazil flag
5. Inter/Gremio flag, t-shirts etc.
6. Jewlery with Brazilian stones or the stone itself
7. Art work from the Brique fair
8. Coffee beans
9. File mignon
10. Chimarrao kit
11. Caipirinha kit
12. Soaps or creams made of Brazilian plants
13. Guarana

If you have any other ideas, please add your comment!

Bird Feeders

We have lots of birds coming to drink sugar water everyday from our bird feeder that is hanging in the balcony. We see a lot of Bananaquits (left photo) and humming birds (=beija flor). There's another visitor - a bigger black bird that we don't know it's name yet.

Bird feeders are fun and can be purchased at the bigger supermarkets, pet stores or bazar stores. If you have a net around your balcony (for children safety) you can also have a bird feeder - the birds are clever enough to fly in and out of the net.

Parcão - Moinhos de Vento

The Parcão is a nice small park, located in Moinhos de Vento neighborhood. In the middle of the park there is a small pond(well... maybe more like a big puddle) with turtles, water-birds and ducks. Next to it there is a nice windmill ("Moinho de Vento") that during the summer is open for craft work and children activities. In the upper side of the park there is nice playground and an opportunity for the kids (and parents) to meet new people and make friends. Around the park there are two marked paths for jogging - the shorter one is 650m long and the longer is 1 Km long.

I think that the Parcão looks a bit different for each of us - for some it is the place to work out, for others - a great place to go with the kids (with or without a bike, with or without soccer ball) or the dog, others can enjoy reading the weekend newspaper or a nice book (with or without Chimarrão).

From time to time, usually on Sundays, there are free activities at the park, like concerts, children games, working out in groups, dog shows and more.

Mulligan Irish Pub - my place for a Pint of Guinness

Living just few blocks away from Padre Chagas st., I frequently take the opportunity to walk few minutes to Mulligan Pub, sit on the bar and have a nice pint of Guinness (or two) with the simple-yet-fantastic "Boxty Gaelic" - potato pancake filled with meet in whiskey and mushroom sauce.

Mulligan is a "fancy" place, located in the heart of Moinhos de Vento, and therefor is not cheap (a pint of Guinness will be around 13R$). Yet - I like the atmosphere, the service is great and the professional beer pouring (Fabinho - the bartender is "Guinness certified") is well appreciated.

Mulligan offers great variety of local and imported beers - draught beers ("Chopp") as well as bottled beers ("Cerveja"). Usually I'm here for the Guinness, but sometimes, when I'm in the right state of mind (or when I want to introduce the Brazilian beers to guests and visitors) I'm going for one of the Eisenbahn draft variety (the best is to start with Pilsen, continue with Pale Ale and finish with Dunkel).

Address: Padre Chagas 25 (Moinhos de Vento). Tel. 3029-3725 / 8422-9301. Opening Hours: 17:00 - 2:00 (Close on Monday)

Feta Cheese

A good feta cheese can be found in different delis and also in Nacional stores. It has 4 months validity and is made in Brazil by Lacaune company. Made of goat milk.
Click on the photo below to enlarge image.

Live Music Clubs

Among the many clubs around Porto Alegre, we like to go to Sgt. Pepper's or Abbey Road to listen to live music. They're owned by the same person. Both places have their "home band" that sings the Beatles songs on weekend nights. On other nights they have other shows as well, also from international bands (Stanley Jordan was at the Abbey Road recently for the 3rd time). The program is available in their website. The clubs have a very nice atmosphere and you can enjoy a good meal and show at the same time.
Addresses: Sgt. Pepper's - Dona Laura, 329 Tel. 33313258 from 21:00.
Abbey Road - Av. Plinio Brasil Milano, 1185, Tel. 33289516 from 21:00.

Beer - Brazilian and Imported

There is a nice variety of local beers available at any supermarket in Porto Alegre. Imported beers are available too, but may be very expensive (for example - a 500 ml can of Irish/English beer may cost 10 to 15 R$). Some of the international beers are produced in Brazil, what make them available with local prices (Heineken, Miller, Budweiser). I found that the local beers can actually be very good and I, as a "dark-beer" addict, could even find few nice dark and bitter Brazilian beers.

The Brazilians prefer lighter beers (Brahma Extra is my preferred beer in this category). Simple popular beer (Brahma, Bohemia, Polar, Skol...) price may vary from 1.20R$ to 1.70R$ for a "long neck" (335 ml bottle). What I consider as the best dark beer for this price range is Xingu. It can be found also as a draft beer ("chopp") in some of the pubs and even served in Gol flights.

My favorite Brazilian Brewery is definitely Eisenbahn (they have an English website!!!). It costs a bit more than the common local beers (2.50 - 3.00R$) but in my opinion - it worth every cent of it. Eisenbahn has a nice variety of more than 10 different beers and i will mention the most interesting ones:
Dunkel - Dark Lager, with roasted and chocolate malt character. Medium bitterness. Rich and complex.
Pilsen - Light color beer - Pilsen style. Clean and dry, brewed only with natural ingredients.
Weizenbier - South German style wheat beer, unfiltered, with banana and cloves aroma and flavor.
Strong Golden Ale - "killer beer". Golden colored with high alcohol content (8.5%). This powerful beer presents hops flavor, besides spices. The yeast for this high fermentation beer is imported from Belgium
Pale Ale - A Belgian style pale ale, medium bodied but very complex, with hints of cloves and some citrus. Amber colored with medium bitterness.

BTW - the Eisenbahn brewery is located in Blumenau (SC) and they offer brewery tours. I'm still looking for the opportunity (and the partners) for this visit....

Phone Directory for People Search in Porto Alegre

An easy and useful way to search phone numbers of people in Porto Alegre, is through this link: http://www.phonebookofbrazil.com/ . Actually it's a world wide phonebook.

In this link you can choose between yellow pages (business search) and white pages (people search).

Sports Clubs in Porto Alegre

There are many sports clubs around the city. The biggest ones are Grêmio Náutico União and Sogipa. The clubs have several indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, gym, recreation areas, restaurants and sport classes. During the summer holiday they have special programs for kids. The União club has 3 different facilities, one in the Petropolis neighbourhood, one in Moinhos (open 24 hours a day) and the third is on an island on the Guaiba river.

We have been members of the União and the Juvenil clubs. The Juvenil is a smaller, yet fancy club, located in the Moinhos neighbourhood.

To use a club facilities you must become a member. Usually, the membership is for life, by buying a sort of club share and paying a monthly fee. There are lots of clubs in a wide price range. It's important to know, that as a foreigner, you don't need to buy the club share (which is very expensive). There's an option to pay a flat entrance fee and then a monthly fee that you stop paying whenever you decide to stop your membership. We usually renew our membership for the summer months only.

Addresses: Grêmio Náutico União (GNU) - Rua João Obino, 300 Tel. 3025.3800

Sogipa - Rua Barão de Cotegipe, 415 Tel. 3325.7200

Juvenil (AJL) - Rua Marquês do Herval, 280 Tel. 3323 4304

Books in English

Livraria Cultura (the website is in English) is a big book and music store. They have a good selection of books in English. It is also possible to order a book if they have it in one of their other stores in other cities of Brazil. They also have children books, CD's and a nice cafe to relax and read. Books in French or Spanish are also available. They have chairs all around the store to grab a book and sit down to look at it. For kids, they have a big dragon bench with cushions for the kids to relax and read.

A the register you can issue a membership card for free and get discounts for future purchases.

Address: Bourbon Shopping Country Tel. 3028-4033