Veja Porto Alegre - 2008/9 Guide

Don't miss the latest edition of the annual Veja Porto Alegre Guide.
The new 2008-2009 guide ranks the best restaurants, chefs, bars, food and wines in the city and gives complete reviews about them. Available in the newspaper stands.

Mario Quintana Cultural House

Mario Quintana Cultural House is named after the famous poet born in 1906.
The cultural house downtown Porto Alegre is known for its pink color. In the past it used to be the Majestic hotel. It was built in the early 20's in a baroque style.
Today, this beautiful 7 story building is a home for cultural events, library, art galleries, shows, courses and movies. There's always something interesting going on and it definitely worth a visit.
On the 5th floor, there's a nice garden called Jardim Lutzenberger with purple water lilies in bath tubs, benches to rest and a view to the Centro and a beautiful church. A perfect place to relax or read a book.There are 2 cafe-restaurants. One is located at the entrance and the other one on the top floor, where we visited yesterday with our friends J&M. It's called "Cafe Santo de Casa". They have tables indoors and also outside the balcony with a view to the Guaiba. The food is simple and good. The dish names are all spiritual and the place is full of different santas.



Address:
Casa de Cultura Mario Quintana
Rua dos Andrados 736, Centro
Tel. 3221.7147
Closed on Mondays

Machry Armazém & Bistrô

My friend MS showed me this charming bakery/deli/bazar store in Tristeza neighborhood in Zona Sul (the southern suburb of Porto Alegre). The two Machry sisters run the place. The front part of the store is a deli, where they sell homemade breads, cakes, pastries, fresh and frozen, all made of 100% natural ingredients. They also sell dairy products, sauces and kitchenware. As you go deeper in the store, it turns into a bistro, where you can eat by a table, from a selection of food served in an inexpensive buffet. The food is original, light and delicious. Don't forget to leave some room for one of the irresistible homemade cakes. Ohh... they're just too good! We usually try more than one kind.At the front there are tables to sit and enjoy the small garden and open air. The store is decorated with different craft works that add an artistic touch to the place, and are for sale too.
Address: Rua Dr. Armando Barbedo, 257, Tristeza Tel. 3266.9301
Opening hours: Mon.-Sat. 10:00-19:00, Sun. 12:00-19:00. Packed on weekends.

Coffee in Porto Alegre

As a coffee addict, I can only say that I was disappointed from the coffee i found in Porto Alegre. Unfortunately, I still find it difficult to drink the brown liquid that is called coffee in Brazil. It is definitely not an espresso but I admit that as a dose of caffeine it does the work. The second problem is that a fresh good quality milk is a rare merchandise in Brazil, what makes getting a decent cup of cappuccino an almost impossible task.

However, after a while in Porto Alegre, I succeed to find some solutions:
Drinking coffee at home - to have good coffee at home, I bought nice Italian SAECO machine that together with Brazilian Melitta coffee beans (can be purchased at any big supermarket) and Santa Malta Tipo A fresh milk (can be purchased in selected Zaffari and Bourbon shops) - provide great cappuccino and fantastic espresso.
Having coffee out - for me there is only one coffee chain that is worth visiting in Porto Alegre - Press Cafe. This is maybe the only cafe in Porto Alegre that is using Santa Malta fresh milk and that it's "baristas" really know the job. The sweets next to the coffee are splendid as well. as other decent cafes we count Z-Cafe and Cafe do Porto.

DOC - champamnharia and risoteria

We tried this restaurant last week with our friends AP&P. This charming, lighted by candles place is a bit hidden on a side street in the Bela Vista neighborhood. We thought it was different because they have few tables on the sidewalk outside the restaurant. It's something that we don't usually find in Porto Alegre. The decoration is rustic and on the walls hanging old windows and doors. On another wall hangs a blackboard with today's special risotto and champaign. They offer 5-6 types of risotto, in a big portion (2 servings) or an individual one. The risottos we tried were delicious - prawns with orange aroma and another one with cheese. And of course it's recommended to drink champagne. The waiter was very welcoming and patient too, having to recite the list of desserts 4 times for us, Portuguese strugglers. Don't miss the strawberries in sugar and pepper for dessert!
It's recommended to arrive early because the place is small and becomes packed pretty early.
Address: Rua Jaime Telles 325, Bela Vista. Mon.-Sat. 19:00-00:00.

Sushi by Cleber

It is more than three years that we are visiting Sushi by Cleber. Sometimes we visit there once every couple of weeks and sometimes even twice a week. Sushi by Cleber can be considered as our "home sushi place" (some colleagues, while visiting in Porto Alegre are telling us: "we ate yesterday at Dagan's sushi...").

Cleber is not exactly what you will expect from a chef. A super cool, well-tattooed guy, nice and friendly and can make one of the the best sushis in town. The restaurant is casual yet well decorated, the fish are always fresh and the environment is... like home.

The house system is fixed price per person (around R$ 45-50) for free sushi buffet and some dishes that are served to the table (sushi and sashimi combo, hot Philadelphia sushi, grilled salmon, Shitaki mushrooms, missoshiro soup and others).

By the way - Sushi by Cleber is open 7 days a week for dinner!!!! During summer time, Cleber is open during week days in Porto Alegre and during weekends at Atlantida beach, about an hour drive from the city.

Address: Desembargador Esperidião de Lima Medeiros 317

Tel. 3328-8330/4499
Open every day, 19:30 - Last Customer

Hashi - Japanese Restaurant

We tried Hashi two weeks ago with a group of friends. We had a fantastic ten-courses degustation dinner that was so palatable, that less than two week later we find ourselves sitting there again, and having another degustation (only six-courses this time).

Chef Carlos Kritensen is bringing to the table original and creative flavors, using his experience from studying and working in Thailand, India, Nepal and Malaysia. Each of the courses we had was delicious - both to the eyes and to the tongue. Oyster cooked in Champagne and Brie cheese, Shrimp in Curry souce, Salmon sashimi with thin slices of lemon, Tuna fish with Foie Gras in balsamic marinade and many many others. To complete the experience, the chef comes out with every dish and gives a short exploitation about it.

Hashi (in Porto Alegre) is relatively young restaurant (less than two years old), so the Chef still needs to prove that he can keep the same level for long time. Up to now - he does it well and we will definitely come back soon. Every visit is a new great adventure.
If you're planning to have the degustation dinner you need to inform the chef one day in advance.

HASHI
Rua Desembargador Augusto Loureiro Lima 151
Tel. 3328-0005
Mon. - Sat. 19:30 - 24:00
www.hashi.com.br

Guia Quatro Rodas - planning trips in Brazil

If you are planning a trip in Brazil and you can read some Portuguese, don't forget to take a look at the "Guia Quatro Rodas Brasil". The book gives helpful information about all the touristic places in Brazil, including maps, prices and tips about hotels, restaurants and attractions.
The "Quatro Rodas" site, offers a lot of this information on-line for free.

Mulligan Irish Pub - my place for a Pint of Guinness

Living just few blocks away from Padre Chagas st., I frequently take the opportunity to walk few minutes to Mulligan Pub, sit on the bar and have a nice pint of Guinness (or two) with the simple-yet-fantastic "Boxty Gaelic" - potato pancake filled with meet in whiskey and mushroom sauce.

Mulligan is a "fancy" place, located in the heart of Moinhos de Vento, and therefor is not cheap (a pint of Guinness will be around 13R$). Yet - I like the atmosphere, the service is great and the professional beer pouring (Fabinho - the bartender is "Guinness certified") is well appreciated.

Mulligan offers great variety of local and imported beers - draught beers ("Chopp") as well as bottled beers ("Cerveja"). Usually I'm here for the Guinness, but sometimes, when I'm in the right state of mind (or when I want to introduce the Brazilian beers to guests and visitors) I'm going for one of the Eisenbahn draft variety (the best is to start with Pilsen, continue with Pale Ale and finish with Dunkel).

Address: Padre Chagas 25 (Moinhos de Vento). Tel. 3029-3725 / 8422-9301. Opening Hours: 17:00 - 2:00 (Close on Monday)

Live Music Clubs

Among the many clubs around Porto Alegre, we like to go to Sgt. Pepper's or Abbey Road to listen to live music. They're owned by the same person. Both places have their "home band" that sings the Beatles songs on weekend nights. On other nights they have other shows as well, also from international bands (Stanley Jordan was at the Abbey Road recently for the 3rd time). The program is available in their website. The clubs have a very nice atmosphere and you can enjoy a good meal and show at the same time.
Addresses: Sgt. Pepper's - Dona Laura, 329 Tel. 33313258 from 21:00.
Abbey Road - Av. Plinio Brasil Milano, 1185, Tel. 33289516 from 21:00.

Sweet Bakery

There are 2 bakeries that we like to visit when we feel like having some delicious sweets.

Diego Andino - This bakery has a funny location, inside a garage, but still, their cakes are the best ever! You go up the garage and follow the smell, to a sweet lover's heaven. Diego is Uruguayan and makes a bite size cakes of many flavors. He also makes regular size cakes. Everything he makes looks very fancy and it's a good choice for dessert when having a party. In that case, you need to order the cakes ahead of time on phone or in the place. I always to prefer to go there because I can try some tasting samples. Address: Rua Quintino Bocaiúva, 433, sobreloja, Moinhos de Vento, 3264-4198. Mon.-Sat. 8:00-19:00. Free parking available.

Pâtissier - Marcelo, the owner of the place, will always welcome you with a smile at his patisserie. He makes wonderful chocolate, lemon or strawberry small cakes. He also has delicious empanadas and quiches. There are few tables to sit in the place and in the weekend they also serve lunch. Address: Rua Marquês do Pombal, 128, Moinhos de Vento, 3395-3848. Tue.-Sat. 8:00-20:00 free parking available.

Indian Food to Order

We like to order indian food from Curry Express. They make deliveries only. Tel. 30124040, Mon.-Sat. 19:00-23:30. Their food is really good and we usually order Saag for main dish - curry chicken with spinach and mustard. It's only a bit spicy. All main dishes come with steamed white rice. Onion bhaji - fried onion in dough with yogurt and mint sauce. This serves 2-3 people.

PUC Science and Technology Museum

Inside the PUC university campus, there is a wonderful science museum to go with the kids or even not! It's a huge museum to spend good 5-6 hours in. The museum offers lots of interesting "to touch" exhibits and experiments. There's a nice cafeteria to have a snack or a buffet restaurant to have lunch. A safe parking lot is available right beside the museum. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!

Address: Av. Ipiranga, 6681 • Prédio 40 • Porto Alegre - RS - Brasil • CEP 90619-900 Tel.: (51) 3320.3597 / 3320.3697 Opening hours: Tue. - Sun. 9:00-17:00. Tickets: 10R$ adult, 7R$ child ages 3-12.

Our Favorite Restaurants in Porto Alegre

Here's a link to Porto Alegre map with our favorite places to eat or drink!
If you have more places to recommend, please add a comment.